Lockdown Wine – Define Intervention #Guest Editor
Victoria Hayes
12th May 2020
We are pleased to welcome Janet Harrison from Cracking Wines as this weeks’ Guest Editor. As all the members of the TC team are wine enthusiasts, we love hearing about new and exciting options particularly when you can purchase them right here in Cheshire. So please enjoy Janet’s excellent advice.
Can you have ‘a bit of’ an epiphany or does that make a nonsense of the word – a bit like being ‘almost’ unique? Anyway, I’ve certainly seen the light recently with a few wines I thought I’d got to grips with (knowing just what to expect), only to be surprised – in a good way.
This time, the cases are from Define Food and Wine in Cheshire – to continue with the analogy, a ‘cathedral’ of great wines and food in beautiful surroundings. I’ve been there so many times, for coffee (they make great coffee), fresh pastel de natas and glorious brunch – only to aggravate my back with an extremely heavy bag of bottles on the way home – but no pain, no gain.
Such is my love for the place, I’ve looked on Rightmove to check out the price of the house up for sale, next door to Define, only held back by the obvious consequences of my actions (trousers with elasticated waistbands and a catastrophic effect on my liver), so probably best that it is about a 40 minute drive away (under normal circumstances of course).
Anyway, they now deliver so I can stay in, hurrah! 
I’ll only focus on a few of my favourites and hope they might become yours too.
Bardos Verdejo 2019, Rueda, Spain – normally £11.50, currently reduced to £10.35
I nonchalantly opened the bottle, recalling the (shockingly few) times I’ve had Verdejo and how it was likely to taste, only to be struck by how fabulous it was. Yes, fresh and fruity aromas/tastes (white stone fruit and a bit of nectarine), but with real depth of flavour and such a change from most neutral dry whites. They age the wine (Verdejo is the grape variety by the way) on ‘fine lees’ for around 4 months after fermentation. Lees are the dead yeast cells which have usually done their job in alcoholic fermentation – but this lot are on overtime. They generally add ‘texture’ to the wine (give it a greater depth of flavour and interest). We had this with a relatively mild homemade chicken curry (I was sceptical, but it stood up to the dish no problem). More traditionally it goes really well with fish. Yummy. I’ve already ordered more.
Valenciso Rioja 2018 (white Rioja) – normally £20, currently reduced to £18
Another from Spain, albeit a different area. White Rioja is still relatively rare in the shops. As with the above, it is such a great alternative to standard dry whites and this is most definitely a ‘food wine’. I love this producer, whilst not cheap, their wines are outstanding IMHO. Define also stocks Valenciso’s red Rioja too, which is gorgeous – always. Whilst this has been aged in barrel (9 months) the oak is in no way overpowering. Grape varieties are Viura and white Grenache. I can’t now remember what we ate with it – white meat would be great or something with a creamy sauce. Class in a glass.
Solara Orange wine 2018 from Cramele Recas vineyards, Romania – normally £10, currently reduced to £9 (bargain)
Blimey, what a curve-ball and a delicious one at that. Yes it is orange, from Romania, certified vegan and to top it all, has a fabulous label which could have been designed by Stanley Kubrik (were he ever a wine label designer). The yellow brick road leading to a ‘Tellytubbies’ style orange slice in the distance is as intriguing as the wine itself. I’ve tried this style of wine before and found that some can be rather bitter, but not this one. The wine is made by leaving the grape skins and seeds in contact with the pressed juice, creating a deep orange-hued finish. The wine ferments naturally without the addition of yeasts, sulphur or any other additions, according to the website and there is a blend of grapes here, including 19% Sauvignon Blanc. It is really fresh, has great acidity and an amazing texture. This would be great with fried squid (I know, quite specific), but having tannins in white wine, which come from the skins, means it can be matched with many more dishes too. I’ve ordered more – heaven!
Now on to my favourite red…..
Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2015 – normally £24.50, currently £22.05
Yes a bit more expensive, but I saved this for a treat – and don’t we need one at the moment?! I have actually visited this winery when in the Mornington Peninsula area, close to Melborne in Australia. Richard, the owner and winemaker, is an ex-surgeon from the UK and such a lovely man who came in during our tasting with secateurs in hand (presumably a scalpel replacement, old habits die hard) and he spent ages with us explaining about this small, family run business and his passion for wine. For those who like a good red Burgundy, this is a style you’ll love. The winery uses minimal chemicals, wild yeast ferments and there is minimal intervention (divine or otherwise). With aromas and flavours of Red fruits and a savoury character, it is utterly delicious – we had it with charcuterie and cheeses.
Wine is so fascinating, even when you think you know a thing or two about it, there are surprises in every bottle. So keep on trying and supporting great ‘indies’ – hallelujah to that!
Janet Harrison
Janet Harrison is the owner of Cracking Wine, organising fun and informal tasting events and wine fairs for everyone to enjoy, whatever your level of knowledge.