A Taste of Sunshine and Sparkle: Discovering Goldford Wines, Cheshire’s Hidden Gem
This week, the Taste Cheshire team had the absolute pleasure of visiting Goldford Wines at their stunning Fairview Vineyard in Bickerton. And what a day it was! Bathed in glorious sunshine, with breathtaking panoramic views stretching across the Cheshire plains, it was the perfect setting to dive into the world of truly local winemaking.
We met the passionate duo behind Goldford Wines: Liane Smith, an engineer, and her son Will Smith, a musician. This seemingly unconventional pairing are crafting something truly special – a wonderful sparkling Cheshire wine that we firmly believe should be a staple on every discerning Cheshire-based restaurant menu, proudly championing our county’s produce.
Our tour with Liane and Will wasn’t just informative; it was clear to see the immense passion and dedication they pour into every bottle. We chatted about their journey, starting from their move to Bickerton in 2014. “We have south-facing slopes, we enjoy wine,” Liane explained with a smile, “and after we had all had a lot to drink of some excellent English and Welsh wines over Christmas 2016, it just seemed like a great idea to produce a Cheshire wine.” And so, the seed was planted for Goldford Wines
They dove headfirst into the viticulture world, planting their first vines in May 2018. They carefully selected classic cool climate varieties like Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, alongside the English classic Seyval Blanc. Liane noted their strategic decision to plant two top Burgundy clones of Pinot Noir, a risk that has clearly paid off, yielding grapes rich in fruit content as the vines mature.
The location itself is a star player in Goldford’s story.
“Absolutely,” Will enthused, describing their position on the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge. “The slopes are quite steep, so each plant gets its fair share of sun. And with our fields oriented south and southeast, they soak up plenty of sunny hours.” He pointed out the excellent topsoil quality from decades of grazing, and crucially, the well-draining sandstone beneath – a non-negotiable for happy vines”.
Liane and Will’s hands-on approach is evident. They told us how every year, they personally hand-harvest and meticulously prune each vine, believing this physical effort genuinely adds to the wine’s quality. They also spoke highly of their partnership with Halfpenny Green Wine Estate in Staffordshire, who bring a wealth of experience to the winemaking process. “Our decisions in the winery aim to continue to express the cool climate characteristics and geography of our vineyard,” Liane affirmed. They use whole bunch pressing and first fermentation in steel tanks to preserve the crisp fruit flavours, ensuring that every step, “from the soil in the vineyard through to the winemaking, adds to the final product.”
When we asked about the challenges of growing vines in the UK, they were candid. “While there are plenty of regulations to comply with, the main restrictions are the time, effort and the right location,” Liane stated, underscoring that good drainage and adequate sunshine are paramount. They also highlighted the positive environment for experimentation in the UK’s young wine industry, noting how their Seyval Blanc vines admirably resist powdery mildew, even surrounded by affected oak trees.
Their branding is equally thoughtful. Named after Goldford Lane, where they live, the entire family contributed to the label design, with expert advice for their main product, the Brut sparkling white. “We’ve gone for a fresh look with a sandstone pattern in gold on the front, and the slope of the label reflects the average gradient in the vineyards,” Will explained. “It might not look much on the bottle, but the legs tell a different story in the fields!” And we can throroughly agree after even a short tour of the “PLONK” vineyard, we are blown away by what hard work taking care of these vines must be! (We didn’t dare take on the “SPARKLE” vineyard this time… but we’ll be back another day ready for the gradient!)
Goldford Wines has steadily grown their production…
reaching an average of 5,000 bottles per year, the 2021 Brut Sparkling white, has been left for two years to rest on its lees, developing beautiful complexity and brioche flavours. It received fantastic feedback for its crisp fruit and excellent aftertaste. Their long-term vision includes increasing the lees aging to around four years for their main product, combined with their top Burgundy clone Pinot Noir, which will further solidify their reputation for quality.
If you’re eager to try this Cheshire gem, you can find Goldford Wines at goldfordwine.co.uk, order directly via order@goldfordwine.co.uk, or pick up a bottle at Godfrey C. Williams delicatessen in Sandbach, Vin Santo in Chester, and other discerning Cheshire retailers.
Our visit to Goldford Wines, Fairview Vineyard Ltd, Goldford Lane, Bickerton (SY14 8LL – visits welcome by arrangement, call 07795 457347) was truly inspiring.
Liane and Will’s passion, coupled with their scientific approach and deep respect for their Cheshire terroir, results in a product our county can be immensely proud of. This sparkling wine is more than just a drink; it’s a testament to local talent, innovation, and the pure taste of Cheshire sunshine.
Cheers to Goldford Wines! We highly recommend you seek them out and raise a glass to local excellence.