Hypha is back and they are wasting no time, or food. #Blog

Victoria Hayes
2nd September 2020

Dining at Hypha is more than just a food experience. Hypha is an ethos, an idea, over and above the absolutely sublime food.  Hypha is an entirely plant based restaurant, not because it’s the cool thing to be, but because they feel a sense of responsibility to our planet. It’s not just about eliminating meat and dairy from their dishes, but also eliminating waste from their kitchen. In the next few weeks as their processes take shape, they will have no need of a kitchen bin. Imagine. Even more than that, they work with local seasonal food suppliers to help utilise their “waste products”!

HYPHA HEAD CHEF – Pete Ellis

What does Hypha do? They make “Wastey, Tasty”.

Let’s begin, with the beginning as they say. We had the real pleasure of being invited to come along to “Hypha 2.0” last Friday to enjoy a 7 course tasting menu dubbed SEASON’S STORY, A seasonally changing set menu showcasing the finest produce from their grower’s and foragers.

Who can say no to that? We can’t.

Hypha the restaurant is cool and clean, with fresh plants on the walls, nicely spaced out in a post Covid way but it has a warmth and welcoming feel to it which is more about the brilliant staff than the beautiful decor. We were greeted with a glass of excellent fizz and shown to our table where the fun began. I should mention that throughout these courses we were amply provided with delicious wine, red or white, to personal taste, however as they have not yet finalised the wine menu, for once I won’t be dwelling on the wine except to say it was wonderful and served by friendly, efficient and funny staff!

After a brief welcome and explanation of what they’ve been up to during lockdown from owner Nic Friar, we began with our Amuse Bouche – Trio of Fermentation.

Hypha really understand the term Amuse bouche. After these three little mouthfuls our taste buds were singing, tingling ready for more. That in itself is an achievement but spending a few moments considering the extensive and intelligent processes that went into those three spoons also fires the brain up. An Amuse Cerveau it you will.

Pickled Oyster mushroom, grown in house with crunch miso.

Lacto Fermented White bean puree with an allium reduction

Local Veg, grown in Malpas, with a blackberry vinaigrette, poppy seed marinated courgette and tomato leather.

Taste buds tingling, I was concerned when I heard the next course was sourdough bread, that they may be mellowed out again. But I was totally wrong. Light, Springy bread with a hint of nuttiness, homemade with their own starter. Totally transformed by the Whipped Miso with which it was served. Light texture, heaps of umami flavour and so moreish you could dip chips in it! I would certainly spread it on toast for a late night snack! Bread and miso were also elevated at the last minute by the pouring on of a local rapeseed oil, bright and clear and delicious.

Next up, Minestrone soup disguised as Ramen. And who doesn’t love a classic Italian dish served in a Japanese way? I loved it.

Constructed in the same way as Ramen with the traditional five elements, Seasoning, Broth, topping and oil, this is like no soup I’ve ever had before. The stock from the soup comes from the constant stock Hypha have, their perpetual soup, so the depth of flavour from last seasons’ veg is incredible. A deep, rich, umami broth. The veg scraps are lacto fermented. The pasta is similar to orzo but cooked in the japanese style with baking soda which makes it puff up and gives it a slight unexpected bite. Tomato Garum, of course in the traditional Roman style and the plate is peppered with flavour bombs.

Finally the olive oil, chosen in conjunction with another wonderful Chester venue, Stile Napolitano. A true Italian pizzeria, another one we recommend you try when you can!

The next course, Mycelium Al Ajillo

Roasted Oyster Mushroom with Pom Pom Moss, dried apricot puree, Vinegar leaf and Garlic oil is yet another example of the innovative techniques and ideas pouring forth from Hypha. A dish that feels as though you could have been stranded on a beach somewhere and foraged it yourself but it’s probably the best mushroom you have ever tasted. (plus, no need for a spear!)

The Garlic for the oil comes from a bespoke grower less than a mile away and completes a dish which is earthy, salty, delicious and moreish. I cannot recommend this enough.

Our last savoury course was a serenade to beetroot. Oh and it was quite literally a work of art. “Autumn” 2020, Beetroot on Canvas. Hertiage Root to Leaf Exhibition.

Playing around with the concept of brushstrokes on painting, but instead of different types of paint, different types of beetroot. Gratin, steamed and pickled leaves paired with candied lemon verbena and grilled chicory. 

Not my favourite dish of the night as I am not really generally a fan of beetroot but I was pleasantly surprised and it was a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth.

We were ready now for something a little sweeter and once again our tastebuds were tangled and our minds blown by the background to their Petit Fours.

One a fruit truffle, filled with the red pulp from a local pressed juice company produced in tempered chocolate -another incredibly delicious example of waste management which exploded delightfully in the mouth.

The other a culinary experiment which divided the company. Mushroom in chocolate?! Surely not.

Utilising the off cuts of oyster mushrooms from a local mushroom grower who supplies supermarkets which have exacting size and shape standards, the pieces are lacto fermented and sweetened with a kombucha syrup before finally being coated in tempered chocolate. My thoughts were, well, you should try everything once.

If you love mushrooms, you will love this.

Finally we were presented with our final course, Almond Frangipane and Plum. served with Roasted juices and a Kombucha reduction. All in all an accomplished end to a fascinating tasting menu, one that I suggest you try immediately if not sooner if you are a foodie like me.

If you go beyond just food, keep your eyes peeled for the opening of Koji, next door to Hypha, their fermentation workshop. We were permitted a sneaky peek and we are so excited to go along soon for some weird food science and fascinatingly delicious results. They are the key, to keeping “Wastey, Tasty.”

This food experience was gifted to us by Hypha, however all the comments and opinions in this article are our own and we stand by them. If you don’t believe us, try it for yourself.

Hypha is located at 5 City Walls, Chester CH1 2JG

– Bookings can be made through their website or by calling 01244 312 490