The Nags Head – it’s why we exist #Review

Stephen Wundke
21st January 2019

When I first started Taste Cheshire the criteria for finding a restaurant or pub to list was a simple one. If I was on holiday in Cheshire and I didn’t know where to go where would I want to find that simply wasn’t some awful High St chain, where was the hidden gem – where would the locals say, you must go here, down this lane, around this bend and there it is. Well readers, that’s exactly what the Nags Head is. The most beautiful pub in the most special location, that if I don’t tell you what it does, what it looks like, where it is and why you should go there then you wouldn’t know about and that’s what we aim to do. Find you a unique Taste of Cheshire.

Like all good pubs this one comes with a cracking story. Back in the 80’s when I lived in Tarporley (I was only a child!!!) people would rave about the Nags at Haughton, they would happily drive miles, have a long lunch, sit in the amazing gardens and drive back with too much under their belt. As times changed it became less than the done thing than to drink and drive and with a change of ownership the pub fell upon hard times and in the end remained vacant for quite some time. Nigel Haworth, he of Michelin fame, picked it up, spent almost £1 million doing it up and then launched it without the right support and promptly “did his dough”. You see as much as we public like a really, nice-looking place, we won’t pay for something that isn’t good and what was served wasn’t. They didn’t make it.

That brings us to now and those smart operators who own Piste in Tarporley have picked up an absolute gem of a pub. They are quality operators, who know the area and who have flourished in tough times because they put a good product on your plate and give great service. Sounds simple when you say it but it’s amazing how many get it wrong. Enough of the history, on to the Nags, as anyone who knows me knows I am a tad partial.

We arrived on a beautiful winter’s day with crisp blue skies, a low sun and the pub with its open fires couldn’t have looked better. We didn’t sit outside but we could have, there wasn’t a breath of wind and the beer garden area is wonderful. No need to though as we sat in the conservatory area with views of the bowling green and gardens. The décor is opulent, lush and makes you feel special. Lots of attention to detail and lots of attention from staff who like what they do – as it should be. Ben and his team work well and make people feel extremely welcome. It was all very calming and it made for a relaxing atmosphere, friendly, like pubs are meant to be.

We ordered a starter each which arrived in good time. Gaile, had the Salt and Pepper Calamari with a lemon mayonnaise, it was nicely cooked with a gentle touch, by that I mean it wasn’t rubbery (cooked too long), the batter wasn’t falling off, it was the way calamari is meant to be served. I had the Moules with a white wine, cream, garlic and smoked bacon sauce, and whilst I would have wanted more, Gaile reminded me, it’s meant to be a starter, not a main. I used the spoon to scoop up all the sauce as it was gorgeous. A good start.

For mains Gaile ordered the Hoisin confit duck leg salad with Asian slaw, mixed berries and crispy noodles. It was an impressive looking dish with the duck confited well, as it fell off the bone. As it’s January I made a concession to the diet and had the Naked Burger, no you keep your clothes on but you do get a Steakburger, with Monterey Jack cheese, smoky bacon (and it really was), caramelised onion, stout and horseradish battered onion rings and pickled gherkins  – so it’s a deluxe burger without the bun and it was great. Take a look, you can see how good it is in my photos. I also had a serve of the hand cut chips with pecorino cheese and truffle oil – well I didn’t have the bun did I! The chips were superb and highly recommended.

I also saw some of the Fish and Chips going to other tables and was filled with food envy but maybe that’s for another time and there will be. Because this is a special pub and one that everyone needs to find. The older amongst you will know it and be delighted to come back and see how its progressed, the younger are in for a treat.