Three, it’s the magic number? At HYPHA it is. #Blog

Victoria Hayes
22nd September 2022

The number three seems to be hanging in the air at the moment. It’s everywhere, especially with the accession this month of King Charles the Third to our nation’s throne.

Three – Birth, Life, death.         Past, Present, Future.

Three. is the magic number.

It is fitting therefore that the newest incarnation of the the Green Michelin starred Hypha has been dubbed “Hypha 3.0.”

Hypha’s incarnations are very much an expression of their life cycles, with each stage closing the loop in their kitchen with the aim of 100% sustainability. As Hypha owner Nic Friar is fond of pointing out, everyone will have to embrace these kind of processes by law eventually, so they are proud to trail blaze, to be guinea pigs of their own making. When things get tough, as they have, once again, in the hospitality sector, Nic and his head chef Laszlo set about reinventing themselves, changing the narrative, embracing new ideas and their newest version is the epitome of this.

So What exactly is different? You probably won’t be surprised to hear that it’s really three main things.

Firstly, The layout.

Instead of multiple small tables dotted around the room all eating at different times. the Hypha dining experience now takes place at one gorgeous table of 12. That’s not to say that you can’t still go as a couple, each couple can sit together, and still achieves a little intimacy behind the screening planters on the table, but the whole setting encourages  you to share your experience with your neighbours. Strangers, friends, future friends, it’s all part of the fun.

It doesn’t take long, especially after a few of their gorgeous organic wines, for you to enjoy having people around you. To meet new people to share and experience, it’s surprising how amazing this can be.

 

Secondly, theatrics.

Hypha has always had a touch of the theatrical about it. The food in particular is often mind bending and what you see on the plate bears no resemblance to the flavours that explode in your mouth. This new incarnation leans into this in the best possible way. The food is, if possible, even more magical, but add to this that now each course is finished in front of you and you are introduced to it by the head chef and his team themselves. The way each course is presented to you has a real sense of drama.

Don’t underestimate the importance of this. As the cost of living crisis continues more and more, hospitality has to be more than just a meal to make people leave their houses. If you’re going out, do you want to have an experience. This is certainly what hypha 3.0 is providing.

 

Thirdly, the timings.

As you can imagine doing one larger sitting, all at once means the timings are have changed.

No longer can you pop in and start your tasting menu at a different time to other diners. The seating are now called matinees, early soirée or  just Soirée. They actually only raise the curtains on their ‘seasons story‘ six times a week. This may seem like an odd choice, but Nic Friar has always been honest about the way he approaches hospitality. He would rather do six perfect sittings and give his staff the needed time off, rather than scramble to staff, multiple less perfect settings.

 

The things that remain constant aren’t certainly the best of them. They remain a zero waste kitchen. They continue to close the loop on sustainability. They focus on local produce in season and their imagination continues to run wild. The food will always surprise and delight. Even those of us who never expected that a wholly plant-based menu could be something so special.

Each course is presented in a beautiful unique way, and every one will be talked about for weeks afterwards. 

 

My personal highlights were the kimchi and potato cigar from the Amuse Bouche! A gorgeous piece of culinary illusion, which I could have eaten five of! The Malpas tomato dish was outstanding with a lacto fermented tomato ketchup, fennel granita, and barbecue consommé. This is what all plant-based cooking should be like.

I particularly loved the Hungarian flatbread with aged tofu, beluga, lentil and summer black truffle, I don’t think Chef Laszlo liked that I called it a savoury doughnut but it was so moreish I cannot stop talking about it. The mushroom ravioli was incredible and you would never know that it was an egg free pasta. Desserts wise the peach dish with almond yoghurt was absolutely beautiful and petit fours, are like something out of a story book and tasted like childhood dreams.

 

The full menu is below, and, but please be aware it will change with the seasons… But something I really must mention that I did think was completely wonderful, was drinks wise, not only with some of us treated to some of the best organic wines,  but also those not drinking were not ignored. The non-alcoholic flight was full of surprises and delights, particularly the lemon verbena lemonade. Each non-alcoholic drink was beautifully paired with the food in the same way that the wine was, and I must admit to having regular envy and annoying my dinner partner by trying his constantly!

Please don’t misunderstand, drinking alcohol, will not let down. There were some really special choices. The opening zero waste G&T with citric & malic acid foam, which was made in house, was out of this world and a brilliant beginning.

I particularly enjoyed the Austrian Riesling and the pet Nat from Cataluña, and will always take Nic’s recommendation when it comes to wine pairing.

All in all, the new third version of Hypha is exactly what you would expect from the number three – magic.

We could all use a little magic in our lives at the moment, so book and try it for yourself. To book this immersive and engaging dining experience click here: https://www.exploretock.com/hypha

 

Taste Cheshire was kindly gifted this experience by Hypha and is very grateful for the opportunity to taste their incredible menu. However, all opinions in this article are our own, if you don’t believe us, or even if you do we thoroughly recommend you try it for yourself.

 

 

The food;

Amuse Bouche

Chive Crumpet with Walnut & Prune

Kimchi & Potato Cigar

Fermented White Bean Buñuelos

 

Malpas Tomatoes

Lacto Fermented Tomato Ketchup | Fennel Granita | BBQ Consommé

Parker House Roll

Turnip Cultured Cream

Chawanmushi

Rapeseed | Leek | Watercress | Dashi

Pâté en Croute 

Tempeh | Burnt Apple Purée | Celery

Lángos

Hungarian Flat Bread | Aged Tofu | Beluga Lentil | Summer Black Truffle

Ravioli

Fermented Oyster Mushroom | Almond | Velouté

Kakigori

Rhubarb

Peach

Almond Yoghurt | Umeboshi

Hazelnut Petit Fours

Gooseberry | Mushroom Garum

Petit Fours 

Chicory Toffee | Pâté de Fruit | Madeleine

 

And your drinks;

  • Entre Vinyes Oniric Pet Nat – Catalunya
  • Nibiru Amphibolit Riesling – Austria
  • Nibiru Müller-Thurgau – Austria
  • L’Archetipo Moscatello Selvatico – Puglia
  • Waste Berry Kombucha – Made in house
  • Lemon Verbena Lemonade – Made in house
  • Zero Waste G&T – Citric & Malic Acid Foam – Made in house
  • Marigold & Peruvian Mint Kefir – Made in house
  • Chamomile & Pink Peppercorn Tea – Rare Tea Co

Private: H y p h a

5 City Walls, Chester, CH1 2JG

Set on the city’s historic walls, this vegan restaurant has a pleasant rustic feel, thanks to its reclaimed wood décor.

More information

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