The Olive Tree – A genuine Greek affair #Review

Gaile Wundke
2nd February 2017

The Olive Tree is a new addition to the ever-expanding Chester eating scene and it brings with it a unique taste of Greece. The owner, Dean Wilson took over the old and very successful Moules a Go Go site on Watergate Row and a very nice job they have made of it too!  Modern, light, comfortable and cheery, we immediately felt at home and quickly settled into our booth next to the impressive floor to ceiling windows.

My dinner guest was happy to experience a real taste sensation so whilst chatting to Manager Simon, who enthused about all things Greek, we came up with a challenge.  We asked him to bring us a selection of starters and mains that he and his Chef would like us to try and which would truly reflect the restaurant’s ambition.  As Simon realised that this was a great opportunity to showcase what the restaurant had to offer, his face lit up and off her went to consult with the Chef!  It’s worth pointing out here that the current January special offer is 50% off the food bill, so for hungry diners, which we were, it’s just the ticket!  Before our food arrived, we decided to choose some wine and whilst the usual countries of reference were available, we decided to remain authentic and selected the Greek, Papargyriou Blanc (£25.95). This wasn’t a wine that either of us had tried before, but it was extremely palatable, an initial nose of a grassy lemony, New Zealand Sauvignon but with the finish of a smooth Australian Chardonnay. It was a great start to what turned out to be a fabulous evening!

Our mezze style starters arrived in good time and we could see we were in for quite a treat.  First up was Halloumi Loukaniko (£6.95), this was my personal favourite, char-grilled Halloumi, spicy loukaniko sausage, the most gorgeous tiny chilli flavoured tomatoes, finished with a sweet balsamic dressing, a dish that was well balanced and well executed. The favourite of my dining companion was the Garides Saganaki, (8.95) – King Prawns with Feta and Oregano in a rich tomato sauce and finally Lahanodolmades (£6.75), a Greek holiday classic of rolled Savoy cabbage leaves filled with rice, lountza, spring onions and parsley.  The three dishes were the perfect start to our Greek experience and we felt that we had been transported out of Chester to a Taverna by the shores of the Aegean Sea.  This wasn’t just a meal, it was an occasion.

After a suitable pause between courses the mains arrived.  We were treated to Arni Kleftico (£21.95) which was the most beautifully slow cooked shoulder of lamb, that just fell off the bone, flavoured with herbs, garlic and onions and served with Greek style roast potatoes, it was heavenly. We also shared the Beef Stiffado (£18.95), tender pieces of beef and aromatic spices in a rich tomato sauce and what true Greek meal would be complete without Moussaka (£14.95).  I was worried that the flavours in this dish wouldn’t stand up to the previous two, but I was wrong, layers of potato, aubergine and courgette with a tomato rich meat sauce and well-seasoned béchamel again highlighted the talent of the Chef who produced quite possibly the tastiest Moussaka I have ever had!

As we discovered with everything that was presented to us, Greek food is massive on flavour. This comes from the care, attention and passion that goes into the preparation and cooking of all the dishes, some of which can take all day. Whilst they might not always look pretty, they absolutely deliver on flavour and honesty, a style of cooking born out of a love of food and respect for ingredients.

So back to our meal and we had now arrived at the tricky part, how to find room for one of the famous sticky Greek desserts. You know you want them, you just don’t know where to put them! My son, who is often too full to finish his main course, but amazingly always has room for pudding, says it’s because he has a separate pudding stomach that deals with this problem. How I wish I had been similarly anatomically built! However, after a small pause we took delivery of Baklava (£5.95), another triumphant classic, layers of filo pastry filled with crunchy pistachio nuts, walnuts and honey served with vanilla ice cream, it was just fabulous. We were then presented with Galaktoboureko (£5.95), semolina custard in filo pastry with an orange and sesame seed syrup.   It was with some trepidation that we approached this dessert as the thought of Semolina custard did nothing for either of us, but having been told by Simon to trust him and having not been let down in any way, shape or form during the rest of the meal, we put our fears to one side and tucked in.  It was a revelation, the custard was baked inside the filo and served cold and the orange and sesame syrup added a sharp/sweet and nutty flavour.  It was delicious and surprisingly our particular favourite.

Before we left, Simon and waitress, Hannah joined us for a few minutes and we had the most wonderful conversation.  Neither of them are Greek by origin, but it was obvious that they have fallen in love with everything about Greek life, particularly the food and drink. Their enthusiasm was infectious and they both raved about the talents of their Head Chef.  We told them that the highest compliment we could pay was that we hadn’t just dined, but had had a complete Greek experience and it had left us both wanting more, even if we were a tad full!

So, if you find yourself longing to escape the hustle and bustle of Chester City Centre and fancy a couple of hours in the Greek Islands, then make your way to Watergate Row and let Simon and Hannah serve you a Greek feast.  It just goes to show that good restaurants aren’t just about good food they’re also about providing a special experience and that’s exactly what we had.