The Fishpool Inn – A Pub for all occasions #Review
Stephen Wundke
18th October 2018
Some years ago when the Nelson family decided that running the incredibly successful Grosvenor Pulford Hotel wasn’t a great enough challenge they had an idea about what they could do with pubs and it was during this time that the Fishpool Inn became available. They spent an awful lot of money making this former 2 man and a dog pub into something that looked and felt very special and added some exciting dishes which up until then hadn’t been seen in public houses and suddenly the bench mark for what we expected in a pub was moved a whole lot more North. It was a stunning birth and in the true sense of the phrase, build it and they will come – they did. In droves.
It was just over 2 years ago that we reviewed the Fishpool and we decided it was time to revisit the place that we questioned then “was this Cheshire’s Best Pub”? So, we duly made our booking and in doing so asked if they allowed dogs in the pub. The person we spoke to said not only do they let dogs in but they love’em. If you are a dog owner that is exactly the reaction you want. Not just tolerated but welcomed. We packed our two in the car headed off to Delamere and looked forward to some great pub food. It really is an easy place to find and has an extremely large car park. We arrived early in trading and there was plenty of room in the car park and a chance to walk the dogs around the grounds to get them relaxed. The location is fabulous, you really are in great Cheshire countryside here. It was a bit cool for sitting outside, which was a shame but when we went in a fire was lit and we had a nice table next to it with some discreet areas where we knew our dogs could settle. It really was a lovely and this whole area was dog friendly, including the service where the first drink of our visit was theirs as our waiter arrived with a dog bowl of water. Perfect start.
The dogs and us settled we looked through the extensive menu and the specials and made our choices. Gaile settled on a starter followed by two starters for her main. She often does this as it suits her appetite better and she gets more flavours and tastes. I found a starter from the main menu and was taken by one of the mains on the specials which was not only great sounding but seemed a really good price as well. Food chosen we sat back and relaxed and felt very at home. The bar area had such a nice feeling. Maybe it was the fire, maybe the décor but it works brilliantly.
Our starters arrived and they looked spot on. Gaile ordered the Fish Cake (£6.95). These are so often a disappointment, all “cake” and no fish, well potato anyway but not in this case. You could taste the fish. Not just the flavour of fish essence but the texture of proper chunks of fish was there as well. The accompanying chilli jam was spot on and the whole dish presented perfectly. My own starter was described as Wild Mushrooms (£6.75) Mushrooms in a cream, garlic and truffle sauce with dolcelatte cheese, served “en croute” – it wasn’t; it was served “on a crout” and it was delightful. You could taste every individual component within the sauce, It was a delicate hand that had managed and combined these powerful flavours so skilfully and whilst mushrooms aren’t hard to cook, these were again flavoured, fried and served plump and proud on the plate. Semantics aside this was top draw cooking with both dishes and very impressive to taste.
We totally cleared our plates and were excited for our mains. Mine arrived first. It was Surf and Turf, a rare Sirloin (£19.95) from the specials topped with succelent, big, tiger prawns, with a flat cap mushroom, tomato and chunky chips. Regular readers will know of my hatred of the supersized chunky chip that is more half a maris piper than anything resembling a chip. A jenga sized chip is sufficient to qualify as chunky and these were perfect. Crisp, golden and soft in the middle. The large beef tomato was amongst the sweetest I have tasted and the mushroom had a real earthiness about it, as you would expect. So far so good. Now we get to the Sirloin. I always have my apprehensions about ordering sirloin. I really don’t think it is a great cut, so often tougher than a Rib Eye and without as much flavour. I like mine rare and this was. It had clearly been aged as it was pink rare and not red rare and no blood appeared on my plate, so again all good but the meat itself, well outstanding is the only word. I was wrong. I don’t know what I have been eating all these years but it obviously wasn’t sirloin because this was different. It was soft, it was full of flavour and it was exceptional and the reason why we farm beef. Or at least it should be. And to think had this not been on special this day I wouldn’t have been tempted.
Meanwhile Gaile was working her way through the Pork Beignets (£6.45) from the specials menu. These battered parcels of shredded meat had a lovely texture and deep flavour and supported by a tasty, spicy, dipping sauce made for excellent eating. With her second starter there was even more depth of flavour, the Poached and Smoked Chicken Rillette (£7.50), all buttery and rich with flaked, poached and smoked chicken pieces, which came in a kilner jar and was sharpened up with a lovely fresh salsa and some toast. Both were very tasty and were exactly as described, the former all unctuous and umami-ish the latter the fresher bitier flavour. A really good combination.
During the time we were dining the pub filled up considerably showing that the appetite of those near and far remains for this iconic pub – the first of the new breed and as we settled our bill and made our way out I would say there were easily another 6 dogs with their owners all enjoying their day out. In fact our waiter, who was superb, told us that they were soon to launch a new menu – not for us but for the dogs. Now that certainly seems worthy of a review.
We were delighted to see our former favourite was as good as ever and was just as determined to stay at number one as they had been to get to number one. It was a terrific meal made even better by being able to share it with our two other family members. The Fishpool has us, hook, line and sinker.
Ratings:
Service 10/10 Ambience and Setting 9/10 Food 9/10 Value for Money 8/10 Total Score: 36/40
The Fishpool Inn
Fishpool Road, Delamere, Delamere, CW8 2HP
Idyllically positioned on the edge of the enchanting Delamere Forest, the award winning Fishpool Inn is a cosy, characterful inn dating back to the 18th century.