When Kevin Lynn first moved to Rossett to open Machine House in what had previously been the very much loved Churton’s Wine Bar, we were both intrigued and excited. Here was yet another Chef du Patron with immense talent setting up in Cheshire and having won AA Rosettes at both La Belle Epoque and Shrigley Hall, we knew we were in for a treat!
Shortly after Machine House opened we visited to do a review and the food certainly lived up to expectations. Kevin’s philosophy was to use the best local produce available, as many of his contemporary’s now do, but he was determined to mix the sea with the land to show how they can bring out the best in each other and on tasting we agreed, the combinations worked brilliantly.
Some two years later we decided to return as part of our Summer lunch series and try Kevin’s Market Menu priced at £22.50 for 2 courses or £26.50 for 3 and see how it compared with the other restaurants we had visited so far. This menu is available at lunchtime Wednesday to Saturday and on Wednesday and Thursday evenings.
It was yet another glorious summer’s day so we chose an outside table in the small vine covered courtyard that sits in front of the entrance to this quirky, charming, old building with its richly oak panelled interior. On this particular day, the temperature was already approaching 30 degrees and we were more than a little relieved to find that the Manageress, Jess had very thoughtfully chosen a table for us in the shade.
Jess gave us a lovely welcome and after seating us and bringing drinks and some exceptional homemade Jersey Royal potato crisps, gave us an appropriate and incredibly precise explanation of what each dish contained within the menu of 3 starters and 3 main courses (there were desserts, but we know from experience that we would never have enough room!) and we duly made our choices. Jess returned shortly thereafter with two complimentary profiteroles filled with Cheddar cheese custard and topped with 8 year aged Parmesan. They were just heavenly, light, savoury and scrumptious and the depth of flavour from the Parmesan was quite remarkable. It was an unexpected but delicious start to our meal and was quickly followed by homemade sourdough which Kevin proves for 48 hours, together with two types of homemade butter, one plain and the other flavoured with lovage. Our favourite was the lovage, with its wonderful herby and citrussy notes, just delicious!
Gaile chose the Cauliflower dish as her starter. It was a floret of roasted Cauliflower, with cauliflower puree, Hafod cheese puree, pickled grapes, rehydrated raisins and onion powder. She declared it one of the best starters she had ever had. We asked the delightful Jess what the grapes were pickled in and she reeled off at least 5 different elements! This was quality cooking at its best. I opted for the pigeon breast and when it arrived it was two perfectly pink breasts served on artichoke puree topped with granola, dehydrated blackberry crumb, blackberries, herb oil and a jus. The clever thing about this dish was not just the cooking, but that each of the elements went so well with the meat as they are very much the diet of the wood pigeon. I have ordered pigeon many times in restaurants because it has sounded so good on a menu, but it has rarely delivered. However, this dish broke the mould, it was everything I have ever wanted in a pigeon dish and made me realise just how good this meat can be when handled by someone who really knows how to cook it.
We were now very excited because so far everything had been faultless and our mains were still to come. Gaile was torn on what to choose for her main but she opted for the Ox Cheek. It was slow cooked, coated in a sticky glaze and served with a Guinness and oyster emulsion topped with caviar and accompanied by Conwy samphire, hand foraged by Kevin. It was the perfect blend of land and sea and as the ox cheek fell apart it seemed to absorb the salty complex flavours around it and highlight them against its rich earthy texture and taste. My dish was the rump of lamb which was served with an homage to the humble carrot. The rump was dressed with an herb emulsion and accompanied by a roasted young carrot, carrot puree, sliced carrot tops, carrot stalk and carrot top oil and an intense lamb jus. All the elements complimented each other beautifully, the sweetness of the carrots, the delicate flavour of the lamb and the rich jus were perfection. I also chose a side of braised baby gem lettuce with an oyster emulsion which was once again topped with the outstanding aged Parmesan.
There was nothing left on any of our plates from either course and we were nearly caught licking our fingers having scooped up every last trace of sauce, that’s how good this food was!
Our previous visit to Machine House had rated very highly, but it was evident that things had stepped up a level, this was cooking from a man who is obviously comfortable in his surroundings, who totally understands what he wants from his dishes and is delivering food of the highest quality with consistency and class. However, the importance of Jess shouldn’t be underestimated, she clearly loves what the restaurant and her boss are doing and she manages to effortlessly combine personality, with respect and outstanding service. The combination of fabulous cooking and excellent service results in a superb product.
It is no wonder Kevin has won so many awards recently, including a recommendation in the Michelin guide. His restaurant is unique and the fact that it can only cater for a limited amount of customers, makes every meal special. As we were about to leave Chef Aiden Byrne arrived with his family. He had heard in Manchester that Kevin was doing something special and had come to sample the 5 course taster menu. I saw later on twitter that he was raving about his experience and urging his followers to go and try for themselves! This 5 course meal is available for just £25 from Wednesday to Saturday lunchtime and on Wednesday and Thursday evenings.
Our lunch took the full hour to deliver and we enjoyed every second of it. If you are thinking about impressing anyone who really enjoys food, whether it’s for business or pleasure, then you simply must give Machine House a go. Our experience was faultless and we felt we had found something that we really needed to share with others. We’re confident that once you have tried it for yourself, so will you!
Ratings:
Service 10/10 Ambience and Setting 8/10 Food 10/10 Value for Money 10/10 Total Score: 38/40
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