Upstairs at the Grill – A special occasion #Review

Stephen Wundke
31st August 2018

It’s always difficult when you want to take someone out for a special meal and that someone happens to be an outstanding and incredibly precise cook but that was my task and after due consideration I entrusted the responsibility of creating quality food with a 4 time winner of Small Restaurant of the year in the Taste Cheshire Awards, Upstairs at the Grill.

I booked a table for 3 and asked if I could be seated upstairs as downstairs was full, they agreed and on a Wednesday night as we walked in the place was buzzing. It doesn’t take a lot to fill but they easily did 40 covers over the evening and it all felt relaxed and comfortable through the night. The entire group of restaurants and bars have always majored on service and here again the service was in keeping with a restaurant that knows its identity and every member of staff gets what they are offering. Its not just the attentive service because we are not so naïve to realise that one or two people around town know us and perhaps sometimes we get looked after better. No it’s not that, what is so impressive is the knowledge of every member of staff. They know what is in every dish, the know about the wines, I heard a young lady explaining about the whisky’s to an older man. It is just so nice to see people so proud of their product and happy to engage with the customers to enhance their experience. Give staff training and knowledge and they will excel – and they do.

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Bread and butter

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Carpaccio

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Scallops

Ordering done we were given some homemade bread and butter. Just lovely. Soft, warm, little loaves flavoured with rosemary and a creamy light butter. Not charged for, just provided and so welcome. Gaile and Jake chose scallops for their starter which came with, sticky pig’s cheek, charred onion and a fresh pea purée. The scallops were soft and just cooked and given the care they deserved after their battle with the French fisherman!!! And the pig’s cheek had been slow cooked so it fell apart. Gaile described every part of the dish as flawless in cooking technique and so very tasty. Jake cleaned his plate and a part of the pattern on it as well!!!. My starter was the Beef Carpaccio, served with Rocket, sweet tomato and Gran Moravia. It was again spot on, although I did have to ask for some olive oil to drizzle on it which I think should always accompany a dish like this. The Gran Moravia is a superior parmesan and has real depth of flavour and having visited Peter Jones at Wirral Watercress maybe I could be so bold as to suggest that even more flavour could come through if Chef used Peter’s superior Rocket as it is wonderful and would lift this dish even further. Enough of the local sales pitch – it was a great starter. We felt very happy with our choices and awaited the mains as we worked our way through an Australian Chardonnay and a New Zealand Pinot Noir.

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Chateaubriand

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Supreme of Chicken

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Truffle chips, carrots and cauliflower

Main courses duly arrived with Jake and I ordering the show stopper to share. The Chateaubriand. For those not familiar with the dish, this is the sweetest, best part of the fillet and if you get a chance you really must treat yourself very soon. Carved by the chef, it was cooked rare as we asked for and accompanied by perfectly cooked mushrooms and tomatoes as well as a delightful creamy bearnaise sauce. The meat was so soft and tender and so full of flavour. We also ordered a side of cauliflower cheese and again its was spot on. Al-dente cauliflower heads and a rich creamy cheese sauce with bacon. Gaile ordered the Chicken Supreme, which was roasted and came with a truffle fritter, confit hens yolk, red pepper purée and fresh asparagus. The chicken was still moist and succulent and the truffle fritter gave it that decadent edge. Again, clean plates dominated, with the one exception of the chips. They were flavoursome and coated with truffle but chips they were not. Chips are long and thin, sometimes thick cut, if described that way but what they are not is thick chunks of potato- or they would be either roast potatoes, deep fried, or if smaller chunks maybe sautéed potatoes. Sorry to be pedantic but the humble chip needs protecting and respect and more and more I don’t think it is getting that. At its best it is a joy but that is so few and far between. Why? It’s a quality potato (mostly maris piper), cut in long rectangles, blanched, deep fried – once, twice of sometimes three times, served crisp on the outside and flowery, soft in the middle, golden in colour, salted and topped to choice. However, I digress. My middle-aged rants these days are increasing.

We finished our outstanding meal by sharing a selection of ice creams and it was the perfect ending to a super evening. I wanted it to be special, as birthdays are and it was. The upstairs dining area felt opulent and unique, the service better than any other in the city and on a par with the Grosvenor, as it was not just informative and attentive but it was also friendly and warm and of course the food was a delight.

I have absolutely no hesitation in recommending Upstairs at the Grill for that special occasion. It delivers at every level and then goes that bit further. Congratulations to everyone involved in delivering a quality product year after year and thank you for making, for us, a special occasion – special.